Preface
In the year 1933, we started a Tailoring Institute, which is now widely known all over India as ‘Zarapkar Tailoring College’. Since then, thousands of students, not only from all over India, but also from foreign countries like Africa, Gulf, Fiji island, Iran, Nepal, Sri Lanka, etc., have taken advantage of our renowned Institute. We have helped them to achieve success in the field of tailoring and our services have been highly appreciated by them and the public at large.
Many requests were made to us by the students and outsiders to publish our rich experiences in the form of a book. This inspired us to publish this book, which contains our rich experiences, both scientific and practical, gained during the long period of many years.
This book has been planned as a reference book for students, amateurs and professional, and it contains only a variety of important garments in vogue. (More garments have been included in our Marathi publication.) Thus the book is an eloquent testimony of our dedicated and glorious past. While writing this book, we have tried to envisage the problems of inexperienced tailor, with the help of many illustrations, which are sometimes over-looked by the young enthusiasts.
Fashions always change, but the principles of garment cutting remain the same. With the help of these principles, hundreds of new styles and designs can be created according to change in fashions. In future, even though the fashion in changed, this book will be very useful. We would like here to recommend that the first seven lessons should be read carefully, before starting to learn the cutting of a particular garment.
Our books on this subject are available in Marathi, Gujarati and Hindi also. A very wide circulation of these books, throughout this country, has led to the establishment of a uniform system of cutting. On the strength of the numerous complimentary letters which we receive, we are happy to record that it is meeting with tremendous success.
Preface | 5 |
Metric System | 7 |
Anatomy for Cutters | 8 |
Measurements | 13 |
How to Measure | 14 |
Instructions for Drafting | 20 |
Facts about Fabrics | 24 |
Folding the Fabric | 26 |
Pleats, Frill and Darts | 27 |
Pressing | 30 |
Some Terms used in Tailoring | 31 |
Introduction to Skirts | 32 |
Four Gore Skirt | 35 |
Plain Skirt | 36 |
Pleated Skirt-1 | 37 |
Pleated Skirt-2 | 38 |
Baby Skirt | 39 |
Umbrella Skirt | 40 |
Flared Skirt | 41 |
Six Piece Saree Petticoat | 43 |
Introduction to Ladies Sleeves | 44 |
Introduction to Necklines | 61 |
Introduction to Collars | 64 |
Introduction to Frocks | 72 |
A-Line Frock | 74 |
Plain Frock | 75 |
Umbrella Frock | 77 |
Flared Frock | 78 |
Frilled Frock | 79 |
Baby Frock | 80 |
Summer Frock | 82 |
Frock Petticoat | 82 |
School Uniform | 84 |
Skirt Blouse | 85 |
Plain Blouse | 86 |
Choli Blouse | 87 |
Saree Blouse | 88 |
High Neck Blouse | 90 |
Raglan Blouse | 91 |
Katori Blouse-1 | 92 |
Katori Blouse-2 | 94 |
Punjabi Mameez | 95 |
Nightie | 97 |
House Coat | 99 |
Ladies’ Shirt | 101 |
Maxi | 103 |
Kitchen Apron | 105 |
Cape | 106 |
Plain Knicker | 107 |
Fit Knicker | 108 |
Pyjama | 109 |
Chudidar | 110 |
Plain Salvar | 113 |
Modern Salvar | 114 |
Boys’ Shorts | 116 |
Shorts with Broad Bottoms | 118 |
Ladies’ Skirt Shorts | 120 |
Introduction to Pants | 122 |
Pleated Pants | 125 |
Pants with Additional Pleats | 127 |
One Piece Pants | 128 |
Men’s Bell Bottom Pants | 129 |
Elephant Pants | 131 |
Jeans | 132 |
Corpulent Pants | 133 |
Ladies’ Pants | 136 |
Different Types of Ladies’ Pants | 138 |
Ladies Flared Pants | 140 |
Ladies’ Bell Bottom Pants | 142 |
Defects in Pants | 143 |
Drafting for Men | 147 |
Introduction to Shirts | 147 |
Various Types of Shirt Sleeves | 148 |
Shirt Collars | 152 |
Half Open Shirt | 154 |
Full Open Shirt | 157 |
Manila Shirt | 158 |
Different Types of Tie Knots | 160 |
Safari Shirt | 161 |
T-Shirt | 163 |
Boy’s Plain Shirt | 164 |
Night Shirt | 165 |
Nehru Shirt | 166 |
Kalidar Kurta | 168 |
Nehru Jakit | 170 |
S.B. Waistcoat | 172 |
S.B. Coat | 175 |
Some Layouts of S.B. Short Coat | 179 |
Jodhpur Coat | 180 |
Working Scale | 182 |
Corpulent Coat | 183 |
Double Breasted Coat | 186 |
Coat Collars | 187 |
Dressing Gown | 188 |
Selection of Cloth for Different Figures | 190 |
Cloth for Various Garments | 191 |
Care Labelling Code | 192 |
Style Developments of Kameez | 193 |
Preface
In the year 1933, we started a Tailoring Institute, which is now widely known all over India as ‘Zarapkar Tailoring College’. Since then, thousands of students, not only from all over India, but also from foreign countries like Africa, Gulf, Fiji island, Iran, Nepal, Sri Lanka, etc., have taken advantage of our renowned Institute. We have helped them to achieve success in the field of tailoring and our services have been highly appreciated by them and the public at large.
Many requests were made to us by the students and outsiders to publish our rich experiences in the form of a book. This inspired us to publish this book, which contains our rich experiences, both scientific and practical, gained during the long period of many years.
This book has been planned as a reference book for students, amateurs and professional, and it contains only a variety of important garments in vogue. (More garments have been included in our Marathi publication.) Thus the book is an eloquent testimony of our dedicated and glorious past. While writing this book, we have tried to envisage the problems of inexperienced tailor, with the help of many illustrations, which are sometimes over-looked by the young enthusiasts.
Fashions always change, but the principles of garment cutting remain the same. With the help of these principles, hundreds of new styles and designs can be created according to change in fashions. In future, even though the fashion in changed, this book will be very useful. We would like here to recommend that the first seven lessons should be read carefully, before starting to learn the cutting of a particular garment.
Our books on this subject are available in Marathi, Gujarati and Hindi also. A very wide circulation of these books, throughout this country, has led to the establishment of a uniform system of cutting. On the strength of the numerous complimentary letters which we receive, we are happy to record that it is meeting with tremendous success.
Preface | 5 |
Metric System | 7 |
Anatomy for Cutters | 8 |
Measurements | 13 |
How to Measure | 14 |
Instructions for Drafting | 20 |
Facts about Fabrics | 24 |
Folding the Fabric | 26 |
Pleats, Frill and Darts | 27 |
Pressing | 30 |
Some Terms used in Tailoring | 31 |
Introduction to Skirts | 32 |
Four Gore Skirt | 35 |
Plain Skirt | 36 |
Pleated Skirt-1 | 37 |
Pleated Skirt-2 | 38 |
Baby Skirt | 39 |
Umbrella Skirt | 40 |
Flared Skirt | 41 |
Six Piece Saree Petticoat | 43 |
Introduction to Ladies Sleeves | 44 |
Introduction to Necklines | 61 |
Introduction to Collars | 64 |
Introduction to Frocks | 72 |
A-Line Frock | 74 |
Plain Frock | 75 |
Umbrella Frock | 77 |
Flared Frock | 78 |
Frilled Frock | 79 |
Baby Frock | 80 |
Summer Frock | 82 |
Frock Petticoat | 82 |
School Uniform | 84 |
Skirt Blouse | 85 |
Plain Blouse | 86 |
Choli Blouse | 87 |
Saree Blouse | 88 |
High Neck Blouse | 90 |
Raglan Blouse | 91 |
Katori Blouse-1 | 92 |
Katori Blouse-2 | 94 |
Punjabi Mameez | 95 |
Nightie | 97 |
House Coat | 99 |
Ladies’ Shirt | 101 |
Maxi | 103 |
Kitchen Apron | 105 |
Cape | 106 |
Plain Knicker | 107 |
Fit Knicker | 108 |
Pyjama | 109 |
Chudidar | 110 |
Plain Salvar | 113 |
Modern Salvar | 114 |
Boys’ Shorts | 116 |
Shorts with Broad Bottoms | 118 |
Ladies’ Skirt Shorts | 120 |
Introduction to Pants | 122 |
Pleated Pants | 125 |
Pants with Additional Pleats | 127 |
One Piece Pants | 128 |
Men’s Bell Bottom Pants | 129 |
Elephant Pants | 131 |
Jeans | 132 |
Corpulent Pants | 133 |
Ladies’ Pants | 136 |
Different Types of Ladies’ Pants | 138 |
Ladies Flared Pants | 140 |
Ladies’ Bell Bottom Pants | 142 |
Defects in Pants | 143 |
Drafting for Men | 147 |
Introduction to Shirts | 147 |
Various Types of Shirt Sleeves | 148 |
Shirt Collars | 152 |
Half Open Shirt | 154 |
Full Open Shirt | 157 |
Manila Shirt | 158 |
Different Types of Tie Knots | 160 |
Safari Shirt | 161 |
T-Shirt | 163 |
Boy’s Plain Shirt | 164 |
Night Shirt | 165 |
Nehru Shirt | 166 |
Kalidar Kurta | 168 |
Nehru Jakit | 170 |
S.B. Waistcoat | 172 |
S.B. Coat | 175 |
Some Layouts of S.B. Short Coat | 179 |
Jodhpur Coat | 180 |
Working Scale | 182 |
Corpulent Coat | 183 |
Double Breasted Coat | 186 |
Coat Collars | 187 |
Dressing Gown | 188 |
Selection of Cloth for Different Figures | 190 |
Cloth for Various Garments | 191 |
Care Labelling Code | 192 |
Style Developments of Kameez | 193 |